Method of making shoes.



G. E. KRIEGER.

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

Mmmm-1 man ocr. s. ma.

Patented Bab, 26,1918.

@513 @tto/mam GUSTAVE KRIEGER AND EMIL KRIEGEB, 0F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 26, 1918.

Application filed October 5, V1916. Serial No. 123,824..

To all 'whom t may concern:

Be it known that we, GUsTAvE KRIEGER and EMIL Knincnn, both citizens of the United States, and both residents of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Method of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specilication.

This invention relates to a novel method of making shoes and more particularly to a novel method of forming the connection between the upper, the welt, and the outsole, by firstsecuring a welt having an expansible and contractible edge, to the upper, then reversing the welt, and then securing the sole to the reversed welt.

In the accompanying drawing:

Figure l is a top view of the shoe upper with the welt attached;

Fig. 2, a bottom view of the shoe with the outsole partly removed;

Fig. 3, a section on line 3-3 Fig. l;

Fig. 4, a similar section Showing the parts in a different position;

Fig. 5, a section on line 5-5 Fig. 2, and

Fig. 6, a similar section showing the outsole.

The welt l is composed of a strip of leather, which is straight along one of its edges, while its other edge is provided along its central or toe portion with a plurality of scallops or tongues 2, separated by intervening nicks or slits 3. rlhe ends of the welt to the right and left of the scallops are also provided with a straight or unbroken edge, the scallops being set back in such a manner that their tips are alined substantially with said edge.

In building up the shoe, the welt cOnstructed as described, is sewn to the outer face of the vamp 4, (carrying the lining 5) in such a manner, that the scalloped edge of the welt registers with the outer edge of the vamp, while the straight edge of the welt, is set back a distance from the vamp edge (Figs. 1 and 3). During this operation, the scallops will render the vamp expansible along its outer edge to compensate for the difference in curvature between such outer edge and the inner edge. The rim of the upper with the vamp attached as described is now first turned down at right angles (Fig. 4L) and then inward (Figs. 2 and 5) over a last 6, upon the sole of which an insole i Vhas been previously placed. During this operation, the welt will be reversed in such a manner, that its scalloped edge will be directed inwardly, the scallops now permitting such edge to be contracted, to compensate for the di'erence in curvature between its outer and inner edges and to permit the welt to be placed in a at position over the last. When the welt has thus been made to assume its final position, the scallops or tongues 2, by converging, will contract slits 3, and thus form at the toe, a practically continuous inwardly extending flange, which is free from folds. This flange is alined with the continuous or uninterrupted inwardly extending flanges formed by the welt sidewise of the toe, so that in this way, there is furnished, an ample continuous flat surface to which the outsole 8 is sewn. Into the space between the outsole and the insole, is placed the usual filler, which has been omitted in Fig. 6 for the sake of greater clearness. Finally the outsole is trimmed together with the insole, which completes the operation.

A shoe constructed as described possesses numerous advantages:

The welt may be sewn close to the ultimate edge of the vamp, thus dispensing with any extension of the vamp beyond the welt which was heretofore required for obtaining a hold by means of which the upper was drawn over the last, and which was subsequently removed, thus incurring waste. The insole being no longer burdened with the function of carrying the welt may be made much lighter and of cheaper material than heretofore, while furthermore the welt may be attached by means of an ordinary sewing machine. Thus the manufacture of the shoe is greatly' simplified, while a product of great durability is obtained.

)Ve Claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which consists in sewing a welt having a scalloped edge at the toe portion to the rim of an upper in such a manner vthat said scalloped edge is expanded and extends outwardly to register with the outer edge of the upper, turning said rim inwardly, thereby reversing the welt and causing its scalloped edge to be contracted and to extend inwardly, and attaching an outsole to the reversed welt.

2. The method of making a shoe which consists in securing a Welt having a sealloped toe 'portion yand 'an'ges sdewse of said 130e portion tothe m of Ysin upper in such a. manner that said scaHopedtoe-por- 5 tion is; expanded and extendsrroutwar'dly to register lwith the `o`ute`r 'edge f the vrupper, turning said rim inwardly thereby reversing the Welt and causing its scalloped toe fportion to befeontmeted and to vextend in- GSTAVE KRIEGER.

EMIL KRIEGER.

Copies of `-this .patent may befubtained forve oent's each,by addressing the Commissioner of 'Patents, Washington, D. C. 

